The Grand JaFun Motorcycle Ride | Motourismo

Story and Photos by Toby Alberto

At Japan's highest motorable road in Mt. Yokote

Prologue: The Rise of JaFun

Late in 2023, the usual suspects (my perennial cadre of riding friends who are mostly composed of my La Salle Greenhills school chums) and I were pondering our next GREAT ADVENTURE. 

Most of the people in this group have relatively recent experiential expertise about motorcycle riding. Despite the short history, we as a group are quite eager to seek adventures on two wheels and have had a decent amount of expeditions – mainly in and around the seascapes and mountain ranges of Luzon – under our belts. One idea being tossed around was a traipse somewhere in Europe, preferably alpine like in the Pyrenees or the Swiss alps! This was shelved as the costs of such a trip might be a deterring factor for some of us. I offered the Himalayan roads up to Umling Lah in India (I’ve long been an admirer of the Pinoy bike ambassadors who have conquered the world’s highest motorable road). But the technicalities of a Himalayan trip may also be too much. A few other ideas came up, but we ended that session undecided.

Turning Japanese

Out of the blue, David (who would become our Ride Director extraordinaire) sent the group a prospectus of riding in Japan - complete with details like costing and such! Japan didn’t immediately cross my mind as a ride destination but as I thought about it, Japan is an IDEAL ride destination. Think about it: Japan has an established motorcycle heritage (duh? Honda, Suzuki, Yamaha, Kawasaki ring bells?); it’s a land with rugged spectacular coastlines, a mountainous interior that rivals the European alps; and the Japanese are such courteous and hygienic people (toilet anywhere with auto-bidet!) – what better place to cut your international bike adventure teeth with?? 

The author's weapon of choice: Kawasaki W800

JaFam (Japan Family)

David soon posted plan JaFun (a play on “Japan Fun”) on a few of our common online chat groups. Apart from the usual suspects, we welcomed a few (relatively) new faces who also signed up for JaFun. But first, who are the usual suspects?? These guys are mostly from a group of friends who go way back (most going as far as knowing each other since pre-school in La Salle Greenhills, over 40 years ago!) and got together to share in their passion for riding motorcycles. First, there is David Layosa, our de facto ride director (not only for this expedition but also several under his belt) – a former petro-corp executive who is now a relaxed entrepreneur. Carlo Panganiban - a professional currently in the communication/broadcast sphere, Mel Garcia - a chemistry PhD who is a prominent figure in the academe, Manuel Jose – a veteran banker specializing in the treasury field, Manny Francisco – a long-time seafood and business impresario, and Allan Flores – a recently retired equities market authority. Then there’s the two non-LSGH alums who are also “usual suspects” – Renan Lacson – a tech sector pro; and Enzo Concepcion – our ”bunsoy,” a hardworking businessman who also happens to be my nephew! The remaining members of JaFam are of the fairer ilk. The two being highly influential figures in the Philippine motorcycle scene – Julia Jatico and Owen Santos. Rounding out the group is businesswoman Rica Dionisio, Manuel’s better half! 

JaFam Izakaya Party in Takayama

This game bunch of adventure seekers all eagerly jumped in on each phase of the planned journey – through coordination of the application/renewal of visas to the required securing of international driver’s licenses from the Automobile Association of the Philippines (AAP). The group even met regularly to do development updates and just to unwittingly build rapport – and rapport we do have! 

Fun Ride Japan!

One day, David came up with the news on our group chat group, “I found us a tour operator!” This tour operator, as it turns out, is aptly called “Fun Ride Japan!” (https://www.funridejapan.com). Now what is Fun Ride Japan (FRJ) and who is behind it? FRJ is a motorcycle tour operator located in Kamakura in Japan. Founded in 2015, they run under the vision/slogan “A fantastic motorcycle ride for foreigners visiting Japan.” What is notable about FRJ’s outfit is that it is run by the wife and husband tandem of Yukiko and Matt Matsubayashi! The operations part of FRJ is spearheaded by CEO Yukiko – a former Japan Airlines cabin attendant from 1975 to 2010 and is a motorcycle nut who rides a Harley Davidson Sportster. It was directly through Yukiko that we collectively and individually coordinated all the requirements through the run up to the ride, and to that end, all went smoothly for us.

The JaFun Chronicles

JaFun Day One: Welcome to Japan!

Before dawn of May 12, 2024, I eagerly got myself ready to head to the airport to go on a trip to build an important life core memory! Having packed several days before, I was through the door and at the airport before I completely had my wits about me. At NAIA 1, I met up with “Team PAL” (designated as such because we were the JaFun contingent flying Philippine Airlines), composed of Carlo, Julia, Owen and myself. Through the uneventful flight and taxi ride to our hotel, we finally arrived in JaFun! Our accommodations and, most meals, from start of the ride to finish were all arranged by FRJ and on our first day, we called Sotetsu Grand Fresa (https://sotetsu-hotels.com/en/grand-fresa/ariake/) in Ariake home. 

Soon after we checked in, Team PAL decided to get a late lunch and ocular the bike rental store’s location right after. The rental store, Rental819 (https://www.rental819.com/), was located in nearby Odaiba. At the store, some of us were able to “fit” the rental bikes we booked and got psyched for the next day’s ride kick off! My weapon of choice was the Kawasaki W800 – the same bike that I own and use! Yes, I’m a bit of a creature of habit. Alas, my rental bike was, unfortunately, out on loan for that day but I did not really need to fit it as I was obviously already familiar with the model. We met up with the rest of the gang (Team CebuPac) at RiCo Land – a moto outfitter/gearheads dream store! RiCo Land (turns out, “RiCo” is a compacted version of “Riders Community”) is “biker budol” central. All the (Japanese/Asian)  “desired” brands are here and are very attractively priced (that weaker yen…bliss). I don’t think any of the JaFam came out empty-handed from the store (my budol was a new helmet…my old one needed replacing #justification). A handful of us then capped the first day with a substantial wagyu yakiniku dinner at Nikuya Yokocho (https://heijoen.co.jp/store/nikuyayokocho-udagawacho/) in the heart of Shibuya. Oishi!

JaFam in Yukatas

JaFun Day Two: Ride out!

The awaited day finally arrived! We were about to ride out! My heart sank, however, when I looked out the window of the hotel as a steady downpour was going on. Although this weather shouldn’t have come as a complete surprise. The online meteorologists did forecast rain. But I was hopeful until the last moment for clear or just overcast skies. Alas, these were the cards that were dealt. We did not come all this way to back out due to a “rain delay.” The ride must go on. The JaFam had breakfast and did some last-minute gearing up before heading to the bike rental store. At the store, we finally met the Grand Dame herself, our ride guide Ms. Yukiko! She and her “first mate” Matt, made sure each of us found our designated bike (not an easy task as there were so many rides in the strore) and that we all assembled our on-bike luggage posthaste. After some documentation and other miscellany, Yukiko got down to the ride briefing. Our destination for that day was Ito, a city on central Japan’s Izu Peninsula, which is renowned for its hot-spring resorts. After Yukiko ensured that we were all packed and ready, we braved the rains and set out for Ito. The downpour’s strength came in intermittently. At times in small patters and chubby drops in others. But, by the time we rolled into the expressway headed southwest along the coastline of Sagami Bay, a vigorous monsoon beset our ride group complete with north-easterly gusts. What seemed like a serious challenge at the moment is now more like quite a fun time in hindsight. After a few hours of riding in inclement weather, we stopped for lunch at the seaside restaurant Totoco (https://www.totoco-odawara.com/) in Odawara. Here we were served some of the FRESHEST seafood bowls that I have ever had! Oishi! After the obligatory photo ops by JaFam, we soon continued with our journey, which did not take too long. Our end of ride destination for the day was Hotel Dankoen (https://www.dankoen.com/), located in the center of Ito.

A wet first ride day en route to Izu

Hotel Dankoen: The Onsen Revelation!

Upon checking in and locating our room (my perennial roomie for the duration of the ride was bunsoy Enzo), it was a kick to find that we were going to stay in a “traditional” Japanese-themed bedroom – complete with futons and tatamis! It was like being taken back in time. Also, what added to the authentic old world Japan feeling was that I had just wrapped watching the series (James Clavell’s) Shogun! This being the first ride day, it seemed appropriate that it would also be accompanied by a few personal “firsts” as well. It was my first time to try an Onsen! Onsens are communal hot spring baths that the Nippons have enjoyed since time immemorial – and what that entails is that the baths are separated into TWO genders and that bathers would be bathing in their birthday clothes! This could have been a slight issue for me before, but I’m a geezer now and all consciousness about looks or physique have gone the way of giving zero f*#ks! My first onsen experience was a revelation! I absolutely loved it! It was novel and verrrry relaxing at the same time. To my added delight, I would find out later that each riding day’s stop have onsen options! Super! 

That evening was our first dinner to be hosted by FRJ. We were requested to come to the dining hall dressed in the traditional Yukata (a more comfortable, informal version of the more popular Kimono) garb. What lay before us was at the dining hall was a table set for each person traditional and popular Japanese fare – Sushi/Sashimi, Chawan Mushi, Tempura, Shabu Shabu, etc. After a few moments of fellowship and a group photo op to mark our first dinner, JaFam retired for the evening to prep for the next day’s adventure.

JaFun Day Three: The Mighty Mt. Fuji!

The third morning in Japan greeted me with rays of sunshine, interspersed with some clouds, but sunshine! The day was looking up already! After breakfast and loading the bike, I gauged the riding day’s temperature by stepping out. As my sole riding jacket was a denim Kevlar one that had poor ventilation (designed for cooler weather), the 28 deg C temp had me feeling that I would be ok riding wearing an armored base layer ride shirt and my added chest/back/kidney protector vest instead. Big mistake. As we rode out toward the Izu Skyline, a toll road through Izu Peninsula in Shizuoka Prefecture. The 40+ km road leads through mountainous terrain and the majority of the route is Fuji-Hakone Izu National Park, which is a tourist road with opportunities for majestic views as that of Mt. Fuji, Suruga Bay and Sagami Bay. As soon as we left Ito, we turned into a steep ascent that immediately drove the temperature lower, rendering my choice of outfit inappropriate to say the least! We approached a clearing that had a clear but distant view of Mt. Fuji, our first glimpse and photo op stop. I would have been as excited as my ridemates at this experience except that I was now very chilly! I scrambled through my belongings to get my ride jacket on! That done, I rejoined the group for some snaps and be finally in awe of faraway Fuji.

Obligatory pose with the Mt. Fuji as backdrop

Owakudani Volcano – Sulfur town! 

We got back on the road and the altitude and temperature on our route was kept high and cool, respectively. Riding at a brisk pace for over 50kms, we soon arrived at our next destination. At first, I thought I had something bad for breakfast, but I soon realized that the smell was coming from the sulfuric vents from the Owakudani (https://www.hakonenavi.jp/international/en/station/owakudani) volcanic valley! Phew! The group took a lengthier break at this popular tourist site. Apart from the sight of steam billowing out of the many vents and the distant (but closer than from the Izu Skyline) view of Mt. Fuji, the Owakudani station is also famous for its black egg (kuro tamago) delicacy sold at its souvenir and curio shop. It was a shame that I didn’t try the egg. I heard it was quite good.

Mt. Fuji Station 5

We saddled up and headed out anew. It seemed we retraced our route and headed back up toward higher ground, each time with the snow-capped summit of Lady Fuji sneaking peaks at our riding group. We soon arrived at a winding toll road that gradually took us up. Then, as if there weren’t enough surprises in this trip, there she was! Gloriously captivating us in her full majesty! The road we took, as it turned out, was the Fuji Subaru line and it led to the mountain’s 5th station, approximately the halfway point of the Yoshida Trail, which leads from Fujiyoshida Sengen Shrine at the mountain's base to the summit of Mount Fuji! Prior to this moment, I thought that we would be just motoring around the iconic mountain. I had no idea that we would be ACTUALLY upon her, midway at least! Expectedly, there was a healthy crowd of tourists, but nothing to be considered obnoxious. We alit from our bikes and took in the scenery. This was pretty much the highpoint (pun intended) of our trip! 

Mt. Fuji Station 5

As we rode out to head to our hotel for the evening, the Tateshina Grand Hotel Takinoyu (https://www.mystays.com/en-us/hotel-tateshina-grand-hotel-takinoyu-nagano/) up in the Nagano hills, darkness fell upon us. Weary and hungry from the long day’s ride, our arrival at the hotel was met by enthusiasm by JaFam! Right after we settled in (we were billeted in traditional Japanese rooms anew!), we looked forward to the buffet dinner at the hotel! What a delicious spread it was! One of the best meals of the trip! Bellies full, and tired from the day, JaFam soon turned in and closed out JaFun day three.

JaFun Day Four: Venus Line, Takayama Valley and the Shirakawago Village  

Before this day, I thought the most beautiful vista of our ride would be the Mt. Fuji views. I was wrong. Arguably, the most beautiful roadway in Japan (I have witnessed thus far) is the Venus Line! The Venus Line (https://www.go-nagano.net/en/trip-idea/id19932#page01) is a 76-kilometer road connecting Chino City in the Suwa Region of Nagano with the Utsukushigahara Open-Air Museum of Art in Ueda City (Eastern Nagano). The road’s lovely moniker, "Venus Line," comes from the goddess-like appearance of Mt. Tateshina that can be seen along the way. Fantastic lakes, a gorgeous wetland, and beautiful mountains surround the area, with a spectacular view of Mount Fuji (again) beyond. Although we were on the Venus line to get to our next destination, it most certainly felt like its own special place to visit as well.

The scenic Venus Line

Tunnels galore!

As we traversed the alps surrounding us, we soon made our descent to the valley plains of Takayama. Although Takayama literally means “tall mountain,” it seems to be a “base” of sorts that inter-connects the more mountainous areas of the Gifu prefecture. Riding in and around this general area, it is here where the Japanese put in display their marvelous engineering capability – a multitude of tunnels! As was made apparent to us, a tunnel network was deemed necessary by the Japanese to facilitate travel time through the Japanese mountain ranges. I lost count as to how many tunnels we went through, but each differed in length and temperature! Yes, temperature! These tunnels gut through the bellies of the mountains, and in mid-May (the edge of spring season), some of these tunnels gave off a Frigidaire vibe, if you get my meaning! 

Shirakawa-go Village: Samurai feels…

The mystical Shirakawa-go Village

Our destination for the day is the rustic and idyllic village that is the UNESCO world heritage site, the Shirakawa-go Village. Located in a mountainous region that was cut off from the rest of the world for a long period of time, the village, and two others nearby of similar characteristics, with their Gassho-style houses subsisted on the cultivation of mulberry trees and the rearing of silkworms. The large houses with their steeply pitched thatched roofs are the only examples of their kind in Japan. As we arrived in the village, we left our bikes in the designated parking area (vehicles aren’t allowed in the village proper, perhaps to preserve the authenticity of the ancient surroundings). Walking through the Gassho houses, I was transported back to a time when the ancient Japanese donned traditional kimonos and the samurai protected the community. This thought, as it turns out, is not far-fetched. Some reading I did after I came back from the trip (I was more immersed in taking in the scenery than learning about the place at the time) pointed to the tradition where the belief in Ochi-udo Densetsu (legend of defeated warriors who fled to the remote areas like Shirakawa-go) still remains. Oh, and the coffee at the local “café” was superb! We rode back to Takayama town through some tunnels (again!) and a bit of rain on our backs. That evening was extra special as it marked the birthday of our riding comrade Carlo! Dinner, drinks, and festivities were held at a local Izakaya spot! Fun!

JaFun Day Five: Mt. Yokote (highest point of the Japanese National Road)

Our itinerary for the day was supposed to include a stop at Matsumoto Castle, but this was scrapped as our group had a relatively minor hiccup that was a “friendly” fender bender that resulted in one of the bikes getting dropped and that bike’s right hand lever (front brake) snapping off (we consider this lucky as it was our only mishap for the entire trip!). We tried to find a replacement part that same morning, but to no avail. We then decided to proceed to our next destination – Japan’s highest motorable road in Mt. Yokote! The ride was a retracement of our initial ascent to Takayama and was generally uneventful. We rode down to the idyllic villages and farmlands in a northeastward direction. As the altitude dropped, the temperature rose. We stopped for lunch at the local fastfood chain (food was good! The place even had a robot server!). Resuming our ride, we stepped out to a sunny, warm afternoon. I was mulling to gear down from my heavy jacket into my armored riding shirt and safety riding vest when Yukiko advised me that we will be riding up to a cooler climate very soon.

The Jafun ride experience

Up THE Mountain

Back on the road, it was not long before the roads started to get steeper and we were met with frequent but benign twisties. Further up, the temperature abruptly dipped and, not long after that happened, I spotted some swept ice on the roadside! Had I done my research, the ice sighting should not have come as a surprise. The Shiga Kogen area surrounding Mt. Yokote had a proliferation of ski resorts, which are extremely popular to winter sports aficionados! It was late in spring time and off-season for the area and I was not expecting any remnants of winter. But there it was! The higher we climbed the more ice there was! A thick fog began to envelope us and with it, icy cold rain. It dawned on me that this was not really fog, but we were pretty high up that we were actually riding into rainclouds! We slowed our pace as the trail got slick and the visibility deteriorated. A broad concrete cross appeared through the haze to my left and Yukiko slowed to the far end of its embankment and came to a full stop. We have arrived. We were on top of Japan! …well, in road terms, at least. Bikes parked, helmets off, and smiles on, we went into a frenzy of photo ops around the place. 

At Japan's highest motorable road in Mt. Yokote

It was disappointing that we were still surrounded by fog/cloud and that we could not sight the scenery below us. Nevertheless, it was (literally) a breathtaking experience! As an aside, for most of the group, it is our second experience up a highest motorable road of a country. Our first was in Tinoc, Ifugao (on Mt. Pulag) in the Philippines. 

The group descended the road “peak” of Mt. Yokote and proceeded to our last road hotel for the trip. The weather was still cold and soggy and we welcomed the sight of the façade of Kusatsu Onsen Resort Hotel. Achy from the long ride, the extreme temperature swings, and the then current chilly weather, I looked forward to a hot meal, a long onsen soak, and a sound sleep – all of which were granted!

A farewell JaFun pic at Lake Kawaguchi-ko

JaFun Day 6: Back to Tokyo

I woke up in the morning of May 17 with mixed feelings. I was a bit relieved that the often arduous motorcycle trek was about to come to its conclusion and that I would go back to the “normal” beat of things, but I was also saddened that this true once-in-a-lifetime adventure experience was ending – and that I was about to go back to the “normal” beat of things. I believe my ride buddies ALL felt the same way. The ride back to Tokyo was generally of a similar tone – uneventful and uncharacteristically quiet. The journey “home” was our longest ride yet – 300+ kilometers, mostly on the expressway and into some (unexpected) heavy traffic upon entering the Tokyo city limits (to be fair, we were arriving in the late afternoon of a Friday. Any major metropolis would be blighted with such jams!). As we finally wheeled into our initial point of origin – the Sotetsu Hotel’s driveway, everyone (well, mostly me) cheered loudly, with hugs and high-fives all around, as we arrived from our FANTASTIC journey safe and in one piece! That was truly something.

Epilogue and some ride notes:

Thank you, Yukiko and Matt of FRJ! Such a great itinerary you planned for us and thank you for keeping our noses clean! 

I highly recommend this adventure be done by all people who have similar interests as our JaFam;

Don’t wait for the “opportune moment” to go on that adventure – any adventure! Big or small. Grand or simple. Putting it off, for me, is akin to delaying life. What are you waiting for? Christmas?? 

Japan has some of the best food on earth! Fight meeeee!!!

Heated motorcycle grips. Revolutionary! Whodathunk?

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Toby Alberto is a career bank officer with The Bangko Sentral ng Pilipinas, but his real job is driver and cook for Mesdames Catherine and Audrey at Chez Alberto.